Lockouts · Brantford
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
The key turns a full circle without any resistance and the deadbolt stays exactly where it is.
In plain words
Most seized locks can be saved, and keeping your existing hardware is the aim. A cylinder that has stopped turning is usually recoverable with cleaning and fresh internal parts. A failed tailpiece is a small component swapped without touching the rest of the lock. A bolt bound by the door needs adjustment, not new hardware. Replacement is the answer for a plug or shell that is worn, damaged or hollowed out by corrosion beyond what cleaning and parts can fix, and then the new cylinder is matched to your keyway and finish and, where possible, keyed to the key already in your pocket.
How the visit goesThe key turns a full circle without any resistance and the deadbolt stays exactly where it is. There is no click, nothing moves behind the face of the lock, and the door is as closed as it was before you touched it.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
How the visit goes
Loading the door while the key is worked
With the lock family narrowed, the locksmith puts a hand on the door. Pushing it into the frame, pulling it out, and lifting on the handle each change how a bound bolt sits in its pocket, and the key is tried gently in each position. If the key frees up under one of those loads, the door is the cause. Where a second entrance is open, the same lock family is compared with the door swung wide, since a bolt that throws smoothly in mid-air and binds when closed has been pinched by the frame. Nothing is forced during this test; it is a diagnosis, not an attempt.
Proving it with the door open and shut
The job is finished with testing rather than with the last screw. The bolt is thrown and drawn back with the door open to prove the lock itself, then with the door closed to prove the door and strike, then from the inside with the thumb-turn or lever. Every key you hold is tried, including the spare from the drawer. If the door is a main exit, the locksmith confirms it opens from inside with one motion and no key. Any hardware that was adjusted is cycled a dozen times to make sure it stays put, and the finish is wiped clean of cleaner and lubricant.
Keeping the cylinder clean and dry
A serviced cylinder stays that way with very little effort. At the interval and with the product that cylinder's maker specifies, a short burst of lock lubricant into the keyway followed by a few turns of the key is enough; stay with that one product, since mixing lubricants makes a paste. Household oils, penetrating sprays and silicone meant for hinges belong nowhere near the pins, because they thicken and attract grit. Wipe the key before it goes in on a muddy or salty day. If the lock ever starts to drag, a puff of lubricant is the first response, and a call is the second.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In the van
Key blanks and code cutter
Strike plate and hinge shims
Long hinge screws
Replacement cylinder
Penetrating lubricant
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
What affects the quote
Keying a new cylinder to your existing key
Pinning a replacement cylinder to the key already on your ring, or rekeying other doors to match a new key, is extra work per cylinder and simplest to do in the same visit.
Matching finish and keyway
A replacement that has to match an unusual finish or a restricted keyway takes a specific part rather than a stock one, and the quote reflects the part.
Inside door or outside door
A jammed bedroom or office privacy lock is generally a lighter job than a weather-exposed exterior deadbolt, and a mortise lock on an interior door sits between the two.
What to have ready
- What kind of lock is it: deadbolt, knob, lever, mortise or keypad?
- Has anyone sprayed oil or another product into the keyway?
- Which side of the building does the door face, and is it near a salted driveway?
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions
QuestionsDo I have to prove I live or work here?
It is a normal part of the visit and it protects you as much as anyone. Photo identification matching the address is the simplest route; a lease, a bill, a management record or a manager or neighbour who can confirm you works as well. For a business, the key holder or the person on the lease is enough. If the documents are behind the jammed door, the check is completed once you are inside, before the locksmith leaves.
Should I spray something into the keyway while I wait?
Better not, unless it is a proper dry lock lubricant. Household oils, general penetrating sprays and hinge silicone thicken inside the cylinder and attract grit, so they buy a day and cost a service later. If the lock is frozen, a lock de-icer is fine; boiling water is not, since it refreezes deeper in. The most useful thing to do while waiting is to stop turning the key, so it does not bend or snap.
How do I stop this from happening again?
Three habits cover most of it. Lubricate the cylinder with a dry lock product twice a year and keep oils out of it. Check that the door locks with no pressure on it each spring and fall, snugging hinge and strike screws when it starts to drag. Keep a lock de-icer handy and fit a keyhole cover on exposed doors. And act on the first stiff turn, because a lock that still turns is a smaller job than one that has stopped.
