Change or rekey · Brantford
Deadbolt Installation
You bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list.
In plain words
The right deadbolt for a door depends on how the door is used and where it sits. A front door that a family goes through twenty times a day needs a durable mechanism and a finish that shrugs off salt spray and sun; a side door in a laneway wants a heavy bolt and a strike that reaches the framing. Residential deadbolts carry letter grades for security, durability and finish, and heavier commercial-pattern bolts carry numbered grades, so there is a plain way to compare. The locksmith talks through those options, then fits the one you choose with the same care whichever grade it is.
How the visit goesYou moved in three weeks ago. The previous owner left a handful of keys, none labelled, and the bolt on the side door rattles in its housing. You would like every exterior door to bolt, and to know exactly who can open it.
Deadbolt Installation
How the visit goes
Where the bolt should sit on the door
On a door with no deadbolt yet, its height is not fixed by the manufacturer but by the door in front of you. The usual spot is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which places the bolt near the strongest part of the lock stile and keeps both locks within one comfortable reach. The locksmith checks that this height misses any glass, decorative panel, hinge line or the wood block inside an insulated door, and that the frame behind that spot is solid rather than a gap between shims. If a storm door or screen door shares the opening, the bolt's thumb-turn and cylinder have to clear it as well.
Cutting a pocket the bolt can fill
The strike is located from the bolt itself rather than from a measurement. The bolt tip is chalked, the door is closed and the bolt is thrown firmly against the jamb to leave a mark at the true centre. The locksmith bores the pocket there with a 25 mm bit to a depth of at least 28 mm, so a 25 mm bolt seats fully and reaches its deadlocked position instead of stopping short and feeling stiff. The pocket is checked with the bolt extended before any plate goes on, because a strike screwed over a shallow hole hides the fault until the first cold morning when the door has moved.
Keys that open what they should
You leave with the keys sorted, whichever way you chose. If the new cylinder was pinned to your existing key, every ring in the house still works and the new door has simply joined the set. If it was set to a fresh key, you have a small bundle of new keys, cut from the pins rather than copied from a worn original, and a clear idea of which old keys no longer matter. Count them, decide who carries one, and test each in the new bolt before the locksmith leaves. A spare kept with a trusted neighbour or in a small lockbox is worth arranging on the same afternoon.
Deadbolt Installation
In the van
Strike box
Bolt faceplate or drive-in collar
25 mm auger bit
Rekeying pins and key blanks
75 mm (3 in) strike screws
Deadbolt Installation
What affects the quote
Rental and building requirements
Matching a building's keyway, providing keys to a landlord or fitting a lock that a condominium corporation specifies can add hardware or bench work, each shown as its own item.
Number of doors
One front door is the simplest case. Front, back, side and garage-to-house doors done in one visit share the travel and setup, so the per-door figure usually eases as the count rises.
Removing and disposing of the old hardware
Some visits end with the old deadbolt and strike left with the homeowner, and others ask for it to be removed and hauled away. Taking the old hardware away adds a small amount of time and is agreed before the new deadbolt goes in.
What to have ready
- Is the door solid wood, steel-clad or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
- Do you want the new deadbolt to work on the same key as your other doors?
- Has the door or frame ever been forced, or are any screw holes stripped?
Deadbolt Installation: questions
QuestionsDoes the finish of the deadbolt matter beyond looks?
It does on an exposed door. Winter salt spray, summer sun and humid air all work on the outside trim, and residential deadbolts carry a finish grade that reflects how well the coating resists them. A lifetime or PVD-style finish stays bright longer on a south-facing or roadside door, while a sheltered porch door can carry any finish you like. Matching the knob or lever below is mostly a matter of taste.
How do I look after a deadbolt once it is installed?
Very little is needed. Each spring and autumn, lock the door from inside and feel whether the bolt still goes home without the door being pulled; if it hesitates, the door has moved with the season and a small strike adjustment restores it. Whatever lubricant the lock's own maker specifies keeps it smooth, often a dry PTFE or graphite type in the keyway and along the bolt, though some cylinders are meant to be serviced with oil. In winter, wipe road salt off the outside trim to protect the finish.
What should I have ready before the locksmith arrives?
Know which doors you want bolted, what they are made of, and whether each already has a deadbolt or only a knob. A photo of the door face and edge helps. Have any existing keys to hand, decide whether you want everything on one key, and mention glass near the lock, a storm door in the same opening, or a rental agreement. If you have already bought hardware, keep the box and template together.
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